Days 1: Arrival into Antananarivo Upon arrival in the bustling capital of Antananarivo, or “Tana” as it is more commonly known, we transfer to our hotel near the airport for an overnight stay. Travelling from the airport into the city, one cannot help being struck by the uniqueness of the Malagasy culture, a strange mixture of African and Asian influences reflected in the landscape and architecture. Depending upon time of arrival, we will take our first birding excursion at Lac Alarobia. This private sanctuary set within the city protects large numbers of ducks and egrets. As evening sets, the small lake literally teems with waterfowl. Large numbers of White-faced Whistling Duck and Red-billed Teal should be seen, usually accompanied by smaller numbers of Hottentot Teal and Knob-billed Duck and, with luck, Madagascar Grebe. A fantastic assortment of egrets roost and breed in the sanctuary, including splendidly adorned Malagasy Pond Heron and Dimorphic Egret. Mascarene Martin is common overhead and we will be watching in adjacent areas for more Madagascar endemics, which may include Malagasy Kestrel, Malagasy Coucal, Malagasy Black Swift, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar White-eye, Madagascar Mannikin and Red Fody. Day 2: Antananarivo to Perinet We depart early for the drive eastwards across the Highland Plateau to the famous reserve of Perinet (otherwise known as Analamazaotra). Hamerkop, Black Kite of the Yellow-billed race, Brown-throated Martin and Madagascar Cisticola are regularly encountered en route. Our accommodation for the next five nights is a delightful hotel, ideally located overlooking a lake at the edge of the forest. Being so close to the reserve means that wildlife is often right on our doorstep. Fluorescent, green Lineated Day Geckos scuttle on the outside walls of our chalets, Madagascar Wagtails flit along the paved walkways and we may well be serenaded by the beautiful songs of the world’s largest extant species of lemur, the handsome Indri. Days 3 to 6: Perinet Special Reserve and Mantadia National Park The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar’s eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds on the island, including many that are rare or poorly known. We will spend the following four days exploring both Perinet and Mantadia. Over 100 bird species have been recorded from within the small reserve of Perinet and we will search for such specials as Madagascar Flufftail, the elusive Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Greater Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Cuckoo, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Ward’s Flycatcher, Tylas Vanga, Madagascar Starling, Long- billed Bernieria and Spectacled Tetraka, White-throated Oxylabes, Nelicourvi Weaver and Souimanga Sunbird. Amongst the most sought-after of Madagascar’s birds are those of the five families endemic to the Malagasy region: the peculiar mesites, exquisite ground rollers, Cuckoo Roller, vangas and Malagasy warblers. Some of these, such as the bizarre Madagascar Cuckoo Roller and Pitta- like Ground Roller, as well as a number of the vangas are reasonably common and regularly encountered, whilst most of the others remain rare, local or elusive. We will make a special effort to locate as many representatives of these charismatic families as possible, as well as those of two endemic sub-families, the couas and asities. In the forested hills around Perinet, we hope to find the localised Red-fronted and Blue Couas, Velvet Asity, and flocks of vangas that may include White-headed, Chabert’ s, Blue, Red-tailed, Hook-billed and the unique Nuthatch Vanga. Highland marshes around the borders of the reserve support some of the island’s threatened birds. Madagascar Swamp Warbler and Madagascar Rail are likely to be seen here and we may also find Madagascar Partridge and Madagascar Snipe if we are exceptionally lucky. Whilst in the Perinet area, we will make a special effort to see the reserve’s most famous residents, these being the huge, singing lemurs known as Indri. A journey in search of these magnificent creatures is on a par with gorilla- trekking in the mountain forests of Uganda, and if we are fortunate we will be treated to a close encounter with a family group, their eerie, whale-like howling echoing through the forest. Other lemurs we hope to see include Common Brown and Grey Bamboo Lemur, and we will also search known roosting sites for the nocturnal but inquisitive Weasel Sportive Lemur and Eastern Avahi. Another “must see” member of the island’s fauna is the Giraffe-necked Weevil, a tiny red and black insect named for its unusually proportioned neck! In the evenings, we will embark on night walks. Nocturnal outings are a thrilling and, indeed, essential part of any trip to Madagascar and Perinet is one of the best sites to search for the island’s night birds. Specialities here include Madagascar Owl, Rainforest Scops Owl and both Madagascar and the rare and little known Collared Nightjar. Whilst seeing these birds will be the focus of our walks, we will not neglect the immense variety of non- avian life that emerges after dark. Although Madagascar is famous for the spectacular lemurs that have adapted to a daytime existence, a number of species of these primitive primates remain, like their African cousins the galagos, denizens of the night. We will search for and should find Eastern Avahi, Furry-eared Dwarf and the diminutive Goodman’s Mouse Lemurs, and may also encounter some of Madagascar’s other evolutionary masterpieces such as the bizarre Lowland Streaked Tenrec. The island’s reptile and amphibian (“herp”) fauna is equally fascinating and even the most hardened birder would not fail to be impressed by the plethora of colourful and bizarre frogs, chameleons and geckos to be seen on an evening’s stroll through the rainforest. In particular, we will search for the giant Parson’s Chameleon and three species of eccentric leaf-tailed geckos, the huge Uroplatus fimbriatus, the aptly named Uroplatus phantasticus as well as the moss-like Uroplatus sikorae. Mantadia National Park lies a short distance from Perinet, protecting a large expanse of primary forest at a somewhat higher altitude. Though it has only recently been opened to the public, Mantadia is now an essential destination on any birding trip to Madagascar, having rapidly gained a reputation as an excellent site for a handful of highly sought-after forest birds. Not least amongst these are a number of species formerly considered to be restricted to the poorly accessible rainforests of the far north-east, such as Red-breasted Coua and Scaly Ground Roller. We will concentrate on finding these specials, also watching for more widespread yet no less desirable forest birds such as Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Rufous-headed and Short-legged Ground Roller, Common Sunbird Asity, Crossley’s Babbler (recent DNA-analysis suggests this species is an aberrant terrestrial vanga!), Common and Dark Newtonia (also in the Vanga family), Wedge-tailed, Green, Stripe-throated and Common Jery, the newly described Cryptic Warbler and Forest Fody. Other attractions in this scenically beautiful park include the vocal Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur, the elusive Diademed Sifaka (considered by many to be the world’s most beautiful lemur), endearing Red-bellied Lemur and Painted Mantella, a spectacularly coloured forest frog. Much of the birding in Mantadia National Park can be enjoyed from the wide road that runs up into the reserve, although seeing the skulkers of the forest understorey will require that we take to the forest trails. Day 7, 27th July: Perinet to Antananarivo After a final morning birding in the Perinet area to catch up with any forest specialties we might have missed, we will return to Tana. If time allows after check-in at our comfortable hotel, we may visit the Tsimbazaza Zoo. While strolling along the open paths through the extensive gardens we could encounter some of Madagascar’s widespread but nonetheless enjoyable birds including Malagasy Kingfisher, Malagasy Turtle Dove, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Hoopoe, Common and Stripe-throated Jery, Malagasy Brush Warbler, Red Fody and Madagascar White-eye. Day 8: Antananarivo to Ifaty via Tulear. From Tana we will take an early plane flight to the south- western coastal town of Tulear. Upon arrival we will visit the Tulear Harbour where we will scan the mudflats for waders and terns, and we may record Lesser Crested and Saunders’s Tern, Greater and Lesser Sand Plover, Terek Sandpiper or the peculiar Crab-plover. Thereafter we will transfer to our hotel in the small resort of Ifaty for a two night stay. Although the distance is only 25km, the journey is slow and arduous due to the very poor condition of the road. We will stop en route to bird some wetlands and salt pans which may hold numbers of Greater Flamingo, Black-winged Stilt, Little Bittern, Kittlitz’ s and the rare and local Madagascar Plover, assorted migratory waders and Malagasy Marsh Harrier if we are very fortunate. Day 9: Ifaty Much has been written about the strange Didierea woodland, or “Spiny Forest”, around Ifaty but this in no way lessens the feeling of awe that overcomes one as we set foot in this botanical wonderland. Venturing out at dawn, before the day’s heat, we will stroll amongst the myriad multi-stemmed succulents, squat baobab trees and thorny scrub in search of such spectacular endemics as Banded Kestrel, Running and Red-capped Coua, Archbold’s Newtonia, Thamnornis, Subdesert Brush Warbler and Lafresnaye’s Vanga. Two very special birds here are the near mythical Subdesert Mesite, which we may find adopting its strange, cryptic posture on a thorny branch, and the Long-tailed Ground Roller, an elusive ground dweller best located by its low, hooting call. Flocks of noisy Sickle-billed Vanga are another feature of this bizarre, Tolkienesque landscape. As the day warms up so too does the reptile activity increase and we should see the numerous Three-eyed Lizards and may be lucky enough to find a beautiful Spider Tortoise or rare Dumeril's Boa. The tropical ocean off Ifaty is alive with marine life and we will have some time to don masks and snorkels and appreciate the myriad colours of a coral reef or relax in the warm shallows in front of our hotel. An optional afternoon excursion will be taken to bird some wetlands to the south of Ifaty where previous Rockjumper tours have found Greater Painted Snipe, Little Bittern, White- throated Rail and Baillon’s Crake. Day 10 July: Ifaty to Tulear After some final birding in the Ifaty area, we will make our way southwards to Tulear, for a two-night stay. In the afternoon, we will make our first excursion to a flat-topped mountain aptly known as La Tabla. The habitat of this desolate area is known as coral rag scrub and consists of dense thorny scrubs, Euphorbias and twisted Baobabs. Our target birds in this area include two species with highly restricted ranges: Verreaux’s Coua and the recently discovered Red-shouldered Vanga. Reptile life here is particularly rich and we should find large, sleek Zonosaurus plated lizards and if very lucky the stunning Dumeril’s Boa and endangered Radiated Tortoise. Day 11: San Augustin and Nosy Ve This morning, we will board a speedboat for an excursion to the small uninhabited islet of Nosy Ve to the south of Tulear. En route we will stop at the cliffs near San Augustine where both Humblot’s and Grey Herons breed annually. The main attraction of Nosy Ve is its colony of Red-tailed Tropicbirds, which allow close approach as they are left unmolested by local people due to a taboo or fady. We may also find Crab Plovers roosting on the sandbars here, as well as good numbers of other migrant waders and a large tern roost. We will also have another chance to snorkel on the pristine coral reef encircling the island. After snorkelling we will enjoy a scrumptious seafood lunch on the mainland opposite the island and then search for the localised Littoral Rock Thrush in the adjacent coastal Euphorbia scrub. In the early afternoon we will return to Tulear by speedboat where we can rest up before dinner and enjoy a lovely hot shower after our exciting but salty day out at sea. Day 12: Tulear to Berenty via Fort Dauphin This morning we will take a short flight to Fort Dauphin (also known as Toliagnaro), in the south-eastern corner of the country. Upon arrival we will transfer to the world- famous private lemur reserve of Berenty. The 4 hour drive takes us from the wind-blown but picturesque town of Fort Dauphin through well watered valleys packed with paddy fields and finally into the rain-shadow of the Andohahela Mountains where the octopus like Didierea trees are diagnostic of the spiny desert. As we near Berenty, the natural habitat is replaced by extensive tracts of sisal plantations, stretching as far as the eye can see. Berenty Lemur Reserve belongs to the De Haulme family who have set aside sections of gallery forest along the Mandrare River to conserve its population of lemurs and other wildlife. We shall venture out in the evening in search of Torotoroka Scops-Owl and the impressive White-browed Hawk-Owl but may also encounter a host of other nocturnal creatures such as the strange Greater Hedgehog Tenrec and several species of attractive geckos (including the remarkable Big-headed Gecko and unique Fish-scaled Gecko). Day 13: Berenty Lemur Reserve Berenty is justly famous for its lemurs, not only because its deciduous woodland is home to five species of these primitive primates but also for the ease with which they may be seen and appreciated in the wild. Brown Lemurs occur in large numbers during the day and both White- footed Sportive and Gray Mouse lemurs are regularly encountered on night walks through the reserve, though the undoubted favourites are the Ring-tailed Lemur and Verreaux’s Sifaka. Whilst the bands of cat-like, quizzical Ringtails are often the first to steal visitors’ hearts (as well as any spare fruit they may have on their persons!), their appeal is easily matched by the strikingly patterned sifakas, with their soulful expressions and bizarre, bipedal dancing locomotion. To spend time with groups of these gentle creatures will certainly be one of the highlights of our Madagascar adventure. A further mammalian highlight of Berenty is visiting the Madagascar Flying Fox roost, were about 300 of these impressive animals sporting 1.25 metre wingspans spend their day squabbling and presumably sleeping. We will be on the look-out for the numerous Giant Couas that stroll along the well-cleared paths through the woodland, any many other woodland birds. Potential new species we may find here include Long-tailed Cormorant, Peregrine Falcon, Madagascar and France’s Sparrowhawk, Helmeted Guineafowl, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk and Alpine Swift. Day 14: Berenty Lemur Reserve to Fort Dauphin to Tana We will have a final morning to enjoy and photograph the approachable wildlife in Berenty, and visit the well presented local museum, which displays one of the few complete Elephant-bird eggs in the world. In the afternoon we will transfer back to Fort Dauphin to connect with our flight back to Tana when we will spend our final night of the tour. Day 15: Tana and Departure to Home This morning we will depart for our flights back home. |
Detailed Itinerary |
15 Days Birding and Enjoying Wildlife in Madagascar |